Relaxers(what you should know)

Yesterday a client tried to convince me that she was taking EXTRA precautions when it came down to caring for her hair. This woman was adamant  about the fact that "kiddie perms"(the term she used) were so much gentler on her hair and that's the only thing she can use other wise her hair will fall out.

This made me stop and think for a minute. I had to take a minute, and was careful not to react for this woman simply just lacked knowledge and who ever has been caring for her hair in the past failed to educate her on the reality of this popular chemical.

 I had to say. what would make a client think that this is true?

Well the truth is manufactures make product to produce an affect. The term "perm" was adopted in our community long ago in an abbreviation  for the word permanent. In our eyes we automatically think permanently straight. The fact is that "perm" technically is a solution made of a chemical called thio and is designed to make straight hair curly, and this solution is dangerous if ever mixed with what we have known to be a straightening solution called hydroxide. Although most people in the African American community have been mistaking about the word "perm", I'm here to share knowledge and help you as a client gain more expectations when seeing a stylist. Most people with textured hair desire to wear it straight. Some temporary (blow outs) and some permanently with relaxers. Those of us who have a tight to medium tight curl pattern are often irritated by the "kinks" especially if you already have a relaxer and you have 2+ month of new growth. With this said there is a definite need for your hair to relax:)) From the tenseness and tightness that the two textures can give.  Hence the proper name that was given to this chemical is RELAXER a chemical made of hydroxides of many types: sodium (lye) lithium(no base) guanidine, calcium (no Lye)

Although all of these Hydroxide relaxers should be applied by a knowledgeable professional who knows when to use which for what hair type. This is not always the case. Usually lye relaxers are applied in a salon and you find most no lye relaxers in a kit to use at home. The reason for this is based mainly on comfort for the scalp more so than health of the hair. Going back to the initial statement made by the ill informed client...No lye child friendly relaxers have strong alkaline straightening content but because children have a much lower tolerance for pain or discomfort and mostly have virgin unmanageable and untamed hair, manufacturers make the chemical strong enough to break that hair down but gentle enough to not burn the scalp as easy.THIS DOES NOT MEAN THIS IS A GENTLER CHEMICAL FOR THE HAIR. If you are not careful this relaxer can be just as damaging and in some cases, more damaging to the hair because people tend to leave it on longer because" it's not burning" not realizing the hair is being over processes and becoming weaker by the minute. By this being a no lye made of calcium hydroxide this type can cause calcium build up on the hair making it very dry and easy to break:((. Hair relaxed with this type of relaxer needs to be timed, thoroughly clarified, and deep conditioned with highly moisturizing conditioners often in order to preserve the hair's integrity. Is also very important to wait at least 8 to 10 week between touch ups.

There a lot to learn about hair in general and I am an open book. I have experienced a lot and have learned a lot  over the 13 year of being a stylist. It is my passion to educate and innovate new techniques and strategies to help clients and every day women with their hair care needs.

Your stylist
Ms.Maryam

naturals

Seasons change and so does our hair. Now days women are changing their minds and going from relaxed to natural. Although you can achieve healthy hair with a relaxer with the proper care from a trained stylist. It is important to know how to deal with your decision to transition. This can be a challenging thing if you are not careful for the two textures colliding can contradict each other causing breakage  and healthy hair SETBACKS..
All of our natural ladies who prefer the relaxed look and the versatility of textured styles, this is for you. There seems to be an epidemic of blow outs and natural hair styling and as a hair care professional I have sought out to find the most effective way of straightening and maneuvering through textured hair.

MOISTURE IS THE KEY. proper ph balance and the right amount of moisture for your hair type will assure the most comfortable hair experience and also makes for a beautiful end result.


1) Most important when dealing with textured hair is to be gentle when combing. Although detangling this hair type can be a challenge it is VERY IMPORTANT to select proper products (shampoo's and conditioners) to help aid in this process.

 2) Depending on the length of the hair, it will be in your best interest to section the hair off applying a light moisturizer to each section mainly on the ends and securing them with a clip until ready to blowdry, twist, or set.

3) Regular trims are imparitive to avoid knots and tangles and breakage at least every 6 to 8 weeks
With these steps you will be sure to be on your way to a beautiful and  healthy head of natural hair.