relaxed or natural? what you should know

Some may ask what should I do with my hair?

I'm here to tell you that's a question that merits an answer that would suit not only your desires, but your life style as well.
As a hair care professional specializing in healthy hair I want you to know you are not alone..!!!...
this is something that a true professional can help you deside.
while everyone doesn't need a relaxer. There are some that are better off not being natural.
our textures can be beautiful in any state if it's properly maintained and healthy.
It has been an epidemic of transitioners from relaxed to natural. Although this can come with challenges, it can be a successful journey.  However KNOW THAT THIS JOURNEY REQUIRES PATIENCE.!!! If you've been relaxed for many years, your ease of manageability will in fact change drastically.......
I recommend seeing a stylist who can guide you to healthy hair and help you determine if transitioning would be the best option for you.

fashion and hair

These two things go hand and hand. I pride myself on providing unique looks for clients. I'm a stylist who recognizes personality and individuality and how everyone has an identity that can be accented with a fabulous style. .

Relaxers(what you should know)

Yesterday a client tried to convince me that she was taking EXTRA precautions when it came down to caring for her hair. This woman was adamant  about the fact that "kiddie perms"(the term she used) were so much gentler on her hair and that's the only thing she can use other wise her hair will fall out.

This made me stop and think for a minute. I had to take a minute, and was careful not to react for this woman simply just lacked knowledge and who ever has been caring for her hair in the past failed to educate her on the reality of this popular chemical.

 I had to say. what would make a client think that this is true?

Well the truth is manufactures make product to produce an affect. The term "perm" was adopted in our community long ago in an abbreviation  for the word permanent. In our eyes we automatically think permanently straight. The fact is that "perm" technically is a solution made of a chemical called thio and is designed to make straight hair curly, and this solution is dangerous if ever mixed with what we have known to be a straightening solution called hydroxide. Although most people in the African American community have been mistaking about the word "perm", I'm here to share knowledge and help you as a client gain more expectations when seeing a stylist. Most people with textured hair desire to wear it straight. Some temporary (blow outs) and some permanently with relaxers. Those of us who have a tight to medium tight curl pattern are often irritated by the "kinks" especially if you already have a relaxer and you have 2+ month of new growth. With this said there is a definite need for your hair to relax:)) From the tenseness and tightness that the two textures can give.  Hence the proper name that was given to this chemical is RELAXER a chemical made of hydroxides of many types: sodium (lye) lithium(no base) guanidine, calcium (no Lye)

Although all of these Hydroxide relaxers should be applied by a knowledgeable professional who knows when to use which for what hair type. This is not always the case. Usually lye relaxers are applied in a salon and you find most no lye relaxers in a kit to use at home. The reason for this is based mainly on comfort for the scalp more so than health of the hair. Going back to the initial statement made by the ill informed client...No lye child friendly relaxers have strong alkaline straightening content but because children have a much lower tolerance for pain or discomfort and mostly have virgin unmanageable and untamed hair, manufacturers make the chemical strong enough to break that hair down but gentle enough to not burn the scalp as easy.THIS DOES NOT MEAN THIS IS A GENTLER CHEMICAL FOR THE HAIR. If you are not careful this relaxer can be just as damaging and in some cases, more damaging to the hair because people tend to leave it on longer because" it's not burning" not realizing the hair is being over processes and becoming weaker by the minute. By this being a no lye made of calcium hydroxide this type can cause calcium build up on the hair making it very dry and easy to break:((. Hair relaxed with this type of relaxer needs to be timed, thoroughly clarified, and deep conditioned with highly moisturizing conditioners often in order to preserve the hair's integrity. Is also very important to wait at least 8 to 10 week between touch ups.

There a lot to learn about hair in general and I am an open book. I have experienced a lot and have learned a lot  over the 13 year of being a stylist. It is my passion to educate and innovate new techniques and strategies to help clients and every day women with their hair care needs.

Your stylist
Ms.Maryam

naturals

Seasons change and so does our hair. Now days women are changing their minds and going from relaxed to natural. Although you can achieve healthy hair with a relaxer with the proper care from a trained stylist. It is important to know how to deal with your decision to transition. This can be a challenging thing if you are not careful for the two textures colliding can contradict each other causing breakage  and healthy hair SETBACKS..
All of our natural ladies who prefer the relaxed look and the versatility of textured styles, this is for you. There seems to be an epidemic of blow outs and natural hair styling and as a hair care professional I have sought out to find the most effective way of straightening and maneuvering through textured hair.

MOISTURE IS THE KEY. proper ph balance and the right amount of moisture for your hair type will assure the most comfortable hair experience and also makes for a beautiful end result.


1) Most important when dealing with textured hair is to be gentle when combing. Although detangling this hair type can be a challenge it is VERY IMPORTANT to select proper products (shampoo's and conditioners) to help aid in this process.

 2) Depending on the length of the hair, it will be in your best interest to section the hair off applying a light moisturizer to each section mainly on the ends and securing them with a clip until ready to blowdry, twist, or set.

3) Regular trims are imparitive to avoid knots and tangles and breakage at least every 6 to 8 weeks
With these steps you will be sure to be on your way to a beautiful and  healthy head of natural hair.

Healthy Winter Hair: What to do to your do once you've left the salon. ...

Healthy Winter Hair: What to do to your do once you've left the salon.
...: What to do to your do once you've left the salon. Clients often ask me, once I've done there hair all up nicely. Now Maryam how am I suppo...

What to do to your do once you've left the salon.

Clients often ask me, once I've done there hair all up nicely. Now Maryam how am I suppose to keep this up? Most women wish they could just sleep standing up:)) But only in a perfect world right. I can totally relate to every clients individual circumstance. And although I cant house myself in every client's  bathrooms to make a miracle happen and keep them without a single hair out of place,, wouldn't that be great if I could:)) There are a few tips that I can share that may prolong the duration of your fabulous mane in between salon visits.

For my short haired edgy cut girls
This client wears her hair cropped and close at the nape area and near the ear, and usually has some jazzy activity styled up at the top. This client appreciates a little or a lot of flare and wants to always make a statement with her hair.

1st step. client must not take super hot showers or baths, steam will make the style drop sooner than later.

2nd when getting ready for bed/shower I find that wrap strips help to contract and diffuse (keep edges and nape in place) during bed time. Lightly tie 1 or 2 of them right around the tapered areas of the head and rest assure this will help keep your mane tamed.

3rd No matter what you may have heard about holding on to a style it's a myth that the harder the better!!!!!!

4th If you have a great cut !your hair will behave as such!, I recommend you to use a light moisturizer, rub a small amount on your fingertips, then light run them thru your spiked out strands, shake them up even for a more fun look. Apply a small amount on your tapered area and Walaa! you've just extended your hair styles life.

Now for my bounce and flow girls (usually wearing a layered look or body curls)

You've left the salon with your hair blowing in the wind full of body and you want to keep it that way through the week.

1st step before bed your should have a light moisturizer recommended by your stylist. Something that is not designed to weigh your hair down but maintain shine and keep your strands from drying out.

2nd Applying a small amount of moisturizer or serum to the ends of your hair will in fact help keep your ends sealed and your style polished.

3rd Once moisturized, wrapping your hair in a circular motion and tying it up with a satin or silk scarf is an oldie but goodie for keeping your hair smooth and protecting it while you sleep. I suggest this for the client who's hair is not cut in layers and is just looking for a smooth worry free finish. This client will be able to just comb her hair down in the morning and go, very low maintenance with no additional flat ironing or curling required. (avoiding excessive heat between salon visits is a definite way to keep your strands healthy).

Option 2 For My girls with layers who want to keep their bounce and flow going. I recommend you dab a very small amount of your light moisturizer on the tips of your fingers, then part  medium to large sections of your hair and pin the section down in a circular pattern (following the pattern that your hair is styled in.) If your hair has a feathered look, pincurls on the right should be rolled to the right, and those on the left should be rolled to the left. Depending on the length of your hair you could have from 10 to 20 pinculs once you're done. (keep in mind that the smaller the pincurl the tighter the curl will turn out) If you like body medium to big will suit your needs. This method can then be loosely tied up with a satin scarf , you can cover your hair with bonnet, or just sleep on a satin pillow case and your morning should be worry free!. No heat needed until your next salon visit.

If any of you who read this blog need further assistance with maintaing your healthy hair please don't hesitate to shoot me an email mm013180@gmail.com to make an appointment or comment on this blog and I will gladly assist you:)
Ms. Maryam

Q&A

Q: client asked me how do you know if your hair health and growth is progressing? How can you tell if your efforts for healthy hair is working and when should you change things up?

A: First thing I told her is to create a regimen and document your weekly routine by keeping a journal, taking pictures of your hair while its wet, blown out, or if it's natural also in it's stage of shrinkage.
Decide on specific products you will use during this journey. STICK TO THEM!!!!!at least for 30 days.
Document each week 1: how your hair feels before and after you use your shampoo.2: deep conditioning is a must when on a hair journey!!!!!! so you should also document how your hair feels when you first put conditioner on; and how your hair feels once it's had time to penetrate the hair shaft.THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT, YOU NEED TO DETERMINE WHAT YOUR HAIR LIKES AND DISLIKES.3: A heat protectant should be used before any heat is applied to your hair; Once you've dried your hair you should be expecting a feeling of softness and moisture. If that's not the case it means you may need to change something about your products..
Keep in mind nothing happens over night. Hair grows 1/4 to 1/2 inch a month and hair growth doesn't happen by obsessing over it!!!!!!!! Once you find your regimen you must stay consistent with it and you will notice a change in the health of your hair first and that's what really important. As far as significant growth, A healthy inside equals a healthy outside. proper diet, and protecting the ends on your strands is the way we retain length. keep your ends moisturized and tucked away 80% of the time and your hair will thank you.

Finally by taking pictures through this journey you will have comparisons to see where you started and where you are headed and what you may need to change if anything.

Stylist Ms. Maryam